A Cruise of Two Halves – Wildlife Adventures in the Hebrides with Chris Gomersall
We’re delighted to share this blog from our on-board wildlife guide and photographer Chris Gomersall, written during one of our recent cruises around the Hebrides. With many years of experience exploring these islands, Chris has a wonderful way of capturing the ever-changing moods of the sea and the unforgettable encounters with dolphins, whales, puffins and eagles that make each voyage so special.
If this inspires you to experience the Hebrides for yourself, find out more about our upcoming wildlife cruises here and see what wonders await out on the water.
Blog: A tale of two halves
Ours was definitely a cruise of two halves: the first few days characterised by fresh breezes, rain showers and mist, while by the end of the trip we were basking in sunshine on the hottest days of the year. Skipper Tony charted our course to give us reasonable shelter and the most comfortable conditions as we headed north, and we were soon rewarded with a small pod of common dolphins bow-riding – a pattern which was to repeat itself on several occasions.
Then, as we paused in the lee of Canna for lunch, a flock of kittiwakes close inshore alerted us to the presence of three minke whales, prompting great excitement and a sudden exodus from the saloon. There must have been quite a shoal of fish there, with a sudden frenzy of minke whales lunge-feeding around us and occasionally surfacing very close to the ship – close enough to smell their fishy breath, which is an unforgettable, if not exactly pleasant, experience.
After a night at Lochmaddy we pressed on to the Shiants, one of our most important and least-visited seabird colonies, where we were able to land for a walk ashore and later enjoy a slow excursion in the tender, getting close to the rafts of razorbills, guillemots and puffins gathered on the sea surface. Low cloud prevented us from spotting any of the white-tailed eagles which are usually present here, but we soon made up for it, finding a pair of adults on the east coast of Skye – the first of several great views.
Here in the Sound of Raasay we were unexpectedly diverted to a distress call relayed by the Stornoway Coastguard, and as we were the closest vessel, we were obliged to offer our assistance. As it turned out, the Portree lifeboat arrived on the scene just ahead of us, and the stricken sailing dinghy and its crew were quickly removed to safety. Thus, we were denied a guest appearance on Saving Lives at Sea.
With the weather improving, we made a return to the Isle of Canna and this time spent a few hours ashore exploring this most delightful and ever-popular island, with its wonderful wildflower meadows, woodland, sea cliffs and beaches – not to mention its own craft brewery.
The next day found us in the Treshnish Isles, more precisely on the Isle of Lunga, well known for its confiding and photogenic puffins. We weren’t to be disappointed in this regard and also enjoyed the bonus of a calling corncrake as well as a healthy population of twite around the old village. One of our plucky guests even managed a swim in the sea.
Then, on a glorious evening at a quiet anchorage on the Isle of Gometra, out on deck after dinner we saw a ‘ringtail’ hen harrier hunting over the hill and a golden eagle flying to roost at dusk.
Our last full day took us past Staffa and Iona, around the Ross of Mull, and ultimately to our anchorage at Loch Spelve, admiring the beautiful coastal scenery and feeling grateful for being in the coolest place around compared to the sweltering temperatures on land. By way of a reminder that you can never afford to completely relax your concentration, as we neared Carsaig Cliffs an adult white-tailed eagle launched itself from the shore and snatched a fish from the sea surface under the nose of a great skua – which had probably recently robbed it from a gannet anyway.
This is now my 25th year of wildlife guiding on live-aboard cruises around the Hebrides, and I can tell you that the thrill of such moments is something which never diminishes.
If this inspires you to experience the Hebrides for yourself, find out more about our upcoming wildlife cruises here and see what wonders await out on the water.
